London Fashion Week* LE MILE Recounts the Key Moments from LFW SS24 Edition

As an established name in the fashion industry, there’s always a big risk of failing to meet expectations, resulting in unoriginal or uninspiring designs. But the worst of all is becoming a cliché.

Thankfully, this season’s London Fashion Week has, once again, hit the mark with some of the best collections ever showcased – yes, including the high-end brands. The Spring/Summer 24 season puts the spotlight on nature and, particularly, colourful textiles and florals – ‘groundbreaking’ if you were to ask the famed chief editor of Runway, Miranda Presley. While New Gen and independent designers emphasised the sustainability advantage of upcycled materials, luxury brands like Burberry opted for signature-style motifs and silhouettes. From day one to the last, read below all the highlights from the extravagant fashion houses’ presentations.

JW ANDERSON Jonathan Anderson's shows are always a blend of intricate construction and boundless creativity, presenting fashion-forward statement pieces that captivate audiences. His SS24 collection was no exception. Drawing inspiration from his playful imagination, Anderson showcased designs featuring sculptural silhouettes, a hallmark of his style. What set this collection apart was his innovative use of plasticine as a material. The debut ensemble, a grey hoodie paired with shorts, was sculpted onto the model, casting dynamic shadows and contrasts reminiscent of fluid apparel. This was followed by designs in vibrant tangerine/silver and midnight blue. The subsequent pieces evoked the essence of high-fashion DIY, with cargo pants billowing at the ankles and bomber jackets enlarged to dramatic proportions, adorned with feathers ready to burst. Padded vinyl ensembles seemed to dance like wind-filled balloons, displayed in vivid shades of yellow, orange, and cerulean. Anderson's line also featured decadent dresses, draped and knotted asymmetrically. And, making its anticipated return, the Bumper Bag was unveiled in a range of hues, accompanied by the season's trending accessory, the knitted moccasin.

PAUL COSTELLOE Renowned for his form and textile expertise, Paul Costelloe made a grand entrance as he officially opened London’s Fashion Week. His latest collection, inspired by a tranquil family afternoon in Ferrara, Italy, was nothing short of enchanting. Though the catwalk was set in the heart of London, the evocative strains of classical Italian music that played in the background effortlessly transported the audience to the idyllic gardens of an Italian villa. Titled 'Il Giardino,' the collection stood as a testament to romance, boasting a blend of dresses, unstructured jackets, and vibrant prints. The initial pieces showcased models gracefully walking down the runway in tennis-themed attire, complete with matching croquet mallets. The collection's stars were undoubtedly the suits, ranging from oversized pinstriped designs to laid-back two-piece sets, all adorned in soothing shades of ecru, sand, and pale blues. Diverging from the playful spirit of the suits, Costelloe unveiled a selection of flowing gowns and mini dresses for the evening. Each piece was intricately decorated with floral prints and patterns, echoing the mesmerizing colors of Italian sunsets.

SIMONE ROCHA

Simone Rocha's SS24 collection at the Mulryan Centre for Dance evoked the ethereal ambiance of a wedding, but intriguingly, sans the bride and groom. Aptly titled 'Dress Rehearsal,' the show was a theatrical portrayal of emotions swirling before matrimony. Models adorned in delicate hues and contrasting blacks meandered around a chapel-like white wooden structure. The collection's focal elements were unmistakably roses, sheer fabrics, and ribbons. A standout pink nylon ensemble was adorned with a cascade of roses, trailing ribbons in its wake. This was quickly followed by a diaphanous piece, under which bouquets of roses were subtly sewn. Drawing direct inspiration from weddings, some designs featured long white gowns reminiscent of wedding cake tiers, paired intriguingly with cake-bag accessories. The collection took a dramatic turn with lace-trimmed motorbike jackets and pearl-embellished suits. Yet, what truly made waves online was Rocha's unexpected alliance with Crocs, resulting in a pearl-encrusted rendition of the famed utilitarian footwear.

AHLUWALIA

Taking inspiration from a plethora of overlooked figures in the creative industry, Priya Ahluwalia's SS24 collection finds a fitting backdrop in London's British Library, a temple of knowledge and forgotten tales. Ahluwalia's pieces echo the legacies of icons like Bollywood's Madhubala, LGBTQIA+ pioneer Marsha P. Johnson, and the mesmerizing Algerian artist Baya Mahieddine. The collection's soundscape honored unsung musical heroes such as Valaida Snow, Sissieretta Jones, and the blues maestro, Robert Johnson. The designs play with perspective and optical illusions, featuring diverse techniques from knitwear to tonal jacquard. Ahluwalia's vibrant array of zebra prints, floral motifs, and her signature denim made with 60% recycled materials, presents a rich tapestry of colors – greens, tans, and blues harmoniously fuse across mini dresses and print shirts. But it's the accessories that truly captivate. The floral-embellished cowboy boots, poised to be summer's top trend, and the intriguing tiny cut-out mirrors, reflect Ahluwalia's knack for the unexpected.

BURBERRY

In his third show for the iconic British house, Daniel Lee proved the adage true: all good things indeed come in threes. Taking over Highbury Fields, Burberry set up a spacious tent, stirring anticipation not just on social media but also with an unexpected underground takeover. Iconically, Bond Street morphed into 'Burberry Street,' with its red and purple hues giving way to Burberry's signature knight blue. This collection stands as a modern homage to British country culture, akin to a stylish city walk through a park. Lee drew inspiration from the quintessential English country garden, resulting in a spectrum of practical silhouettes adorned with jewellery prints, and vibrant floral and fruity motifs. The classic Burberry trench made a distinctive appearance in various avant-garde forms: inside-out capes, gracefully draped trains, and chic overcoats. The contrast of sharply-tailored suits in shades of beige, forest green, and dark blue was softened by airy print column dresses and embroidered halter-neck tops peppered with delicate black and blue strawberries. Accessories, in their oversized glory and adorned with Lee’s signature knight blue, were a testament to his meticulous attention to detail.

The pulse of innovation and unrestrained creativity that New Gen designers bring to London's Fashion Week is truly unparalleled.

This season, the spotlight shone brightly on nature's diversity and beauty, an ode reflected in every stitch and silhouette. As the boundaries of gender-specific fashion blur, the runway was awash with designs that defy labels and traditional categorizations. Established luminaries, such as Chet Lo and Kay Kwok, shared the stage with rising talents, offering a preview into the fashion world's evolving landscape — one that still holds a special place for nostalgic callbacks. Key elements like tasteful prints, effervescent florals, earthy hues, and upcycled denim dominated the runway, setting the stage for Spring/Summer 24's potential trends. Dive into our detailed breakdown below, where we spotlight the standout moments from the New Gen designers' captivating showcases.

CHET LO

Asian-American designer Chet Lo showcased a collection exploring unrepresented sexual identity in Asian cultures at London’s Fashion Week. Hosted at the Old Selfridges Hotel, the venue was bathed in red light. The designs reflected Chinese and Japanese art, with erotic undertones and the use of Japanese Shibari ropes. Lo's iconic knitwear made a notable appearance, with the color palette boasting electric blues, reds, light greens, and whites.

DREAMING ELI

DREAMING ELI’s SS24 collection was revealed in London’s Charterhouse complex, emphasizing female emancipation from patriarchal oppression. Elisa Trombatore, the brand's creator, envisions the DREAMING ELI woman as a Victorian vampire. The collection transitioned from soft hues to intense blood reds, culminating in a standout white satin dress reminiscent of a wedding gown.

JENN LEE Jenn Lee’s digital-centric SS24 collection celebrated the joy and innocence of childhood. Screens around the set showcased the digital design process. The collection resonated with a 90s art studio vibe, featuring a bold palette of yellows, reds, and neutrals. Digital motifs and tech-inspired accessories, paired with grunge elements, defined the collection.

KAY KWOK Kay Kwok’s genderless SS24 collection blended spirituality and technology. Incorporating Buddhist symbols and cosmos-inspired graphics, the collection sported an interstellar vibe. Signature metal arms in various Buddhist mudras added an exotic touch, while accessories provided a street-wear feel.

MARRKNULL Held in Camden's industrial area, MARRKNULL's SS24 collection themed 'Get Off Work' revolved around freedom from workplace confines. The designs featured a mix of street-wear elements, notably denim in various forms. Accessories, especially the denim and leather handbags and a range of footwear in collaboration with DAPHNE.LAB, tied the collection together.

MITHRIDATE MITHRIDATE’s collection celebrated East Asian culture and was displayed at St Cyprian’s Church. Garments ranged from lightweight layered dresses to denim outfits, all unified with pastel handbags and light jade accessories. Sustainability was a highlight, with the materials predominantly being organic silk, cotton, and linen.

Words in @LeMile Magazine